RADISH

The radish is a pure aperitif: its crunchy crisp peppery taste stimulates the production of saliva and arouses the appetite. It's even suggested that you take this connection further -- a glass of chilled Fino sherry accompanied by a side dish of radishes to dip in butter and salt!

Part of the brassica family, radishes are related to horseradish, to turnip and to mustard -- and to mooli, another entry in our catalogue of Fen food. They grow pretty well all around the world, but in keeping with our remit these specimens have come no further than Littleport. Their origin is uncertain, although their introduction to the UK is not believed to have been before the sixteenth century.

They're good for you -- rich in vitamin C and alleged to have anti-cancer properties. In selecting a bunch, if it looks good (plump and firm with bright green leaves) then it is. You can keep them fresh in a fridge for five days to a week, but it's worth cutting the tops off to prevent the nutrients and the moisture draining into the leaves. The leaves, by the way, are perfectly edible and can even be cooked like other greens.

Although our correspondents may contact us to contradict, radishes are never cooked but always served raw. In the unlikely event that they're too hot for you, peel off the skin (a fiddly job), because this is where the peppery taste is strongest. To add crispness, soak in a bowl of iced water for an hour or so before serving.

There is just one more, highly unusual, aspect of the humble radish that you may wish to contemplate while nibbling on one. In Mexico, especially in the rather beautiful colonial town of Oaxaca, December 23rd each year is the 'Night of the Radishes' (La Noche de los Rabanos). Giant varieties are sculpted into unbelievably ornate artistic works. It has to be said that when we were first told this, we suspected an April Fool -- but no: you can read more, and see pictures, at www.christmas-in-oaxaca.com/night-of-radish

 

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